Hey everyone!!
The quarter is almost over so I'm going to try and start getting some more posts onto the sight. But first I thought it might be good to re-post my original surfing story. Actually, my one and only. With summer coming up I'm hoping some you guys send some submissions for the sight.
Also, the contest for Drift Magazine is still going on, so send stories ASAP!!!!!
Write more later and take to all!
"Here's My Gig"
"I tried to learn how to surf while I was stationed in Guam back in '90. I have been fascinated with it since I was a kid and living in Portsmouth, Ohio. Well the only thing to surf there was the wake from a passing barge. A good friend named Debbie gave me a used board she got from someone to learn on. The fun thing for me was that the nose was broke off so I learned how to repair it with some fiber glass. I was so excited that I was working on my board and getting ready to learn how to surf.
I had some good guys to learn with, one guys name was "Turtle." I Sware to God he looked like one but a little more excitable. We first went to a local spot down by "Hotel Row" and that's where they schooled me on respect for territory (I guess you could call it). Being a "howlie" on the island it wouldn't be smart to step on toes. One of the guys I was with went out (cant remember his name) and he surfed for about twenty minutes. The weather and surf was getting bad, we had a typhoon coming in a few days, so the surf was rough but good for the Island. It was too crowded so he came in and we went to a "secret" spot Turtle new about called Mugundas Bay on the south side of the Island. We got there, I saw the waves, and I was like in my mind, "...now that's what I'm talking about!" It looked like something out of a movie! Huge swells coming in sets of four. An absoloute wet dream for an experienced surfer.
Now here's the thing about this spot: You had to climb down about a 100 foot coral reef cliff to get to the water then swim out to the break. Everyone went out except for me and Turtle. His hesitation should have been my biggest warning sign. I think in the back of my head it was. But I started to inch forward and I remember he said, "Are you going out?" I knodded my head and he said, "All right, lets go" with a grin on his face knowing what I was getting myself into. We climbed down the reef and he went in like a fish. On his board and was half way ahead of me before I got my board in the water. I was petrified and even turned around to see if I could climb back up the reef. I couldn't because the re-entry point was about 100 yards left. I had no choice.
I put the board in and tried to paddle for the first time and got nowhere fast. I was getting thrown back towards the reef. I got about 15 or 20 feet from it and tried to swim out a little with board like a lifeguard. It got me about back to where the current caught me the first time and I don't know it happened, but I tried paddling and started to cruise out to the break. By the time I got there I just chilled on the board because I was exhausted. I sat and watched what everyone was doing studying as hard as I could, because let's face it I was pretty screwed at that point. I either had to learn how to do it so I could get back in or my ass was SCREWED!
Well, everyone tried to catch waves and no one was really successful a lot of attempts, but the Hawaiian caught a few, I think his name was Jimmey. Anyway, Turtle made an attempt and went in on his last one. Then Jimmy and the other guy went in too and I was left alone. I stayed because I though they were tired. Then they start waving me in and I tried to catch a couple of wave and they just went right underneath me. So, I paddle back for one more attempt. I caught the first wave on the first swell and I just FREAKED OUT! I remember trying to stand up for a minute or so and felt the power of that swell and man I was ELATED!! I did it! I got up!...then the second wave knocked me right off like a rag doll!
Here's my Surfnightmare: I started paddling in once I found my board and got back to what now became a "PFD". High tide was coming in early because of the storm. I kept trying to paddle left to get to the re-entry point but I was so far right I was doomed. The waves were crashing on that reef like glass bottles and I was just getting closer. I dont know how I kept my head. Somehow I used enough common sense to try and ride the waves up the reef and rock climb at the same time. I was getting smacked like I was a toy. Honest to God I thought I was dead. The swells were coming in sets of four and here is what I did to survive, at least that's the only thing I can call it: As the waves came in, I climbed with my board. I was getting cut to shreds from the reef. About a quarter of the way up I chucked the board and went into survival mode I guess. The waves hit me from behind and I remember screaming from the pain of the reef and that I was gargling the ocean. That was when I knew I was done, TOAST!
Somehow it happened. One more swell came in, another set of four, I kicked off the reef, and rode all four high enough that when they went out I would just power climbed to the top.
I made it to the top and walked forward at a fast pace to get away. I fell to the ground then saw the road. I was covered in blood from my chest down. I started walking down that road back towards the car and I saw my board floating out to sea. After that, everyone called me the "Phillipino Board Boy" since that's most likely where my board washed up, and I would have too if I had not climbed that reef and chucked the board into the sea.
I never tried to surf again after that. It became my white whale. Now, I might see what that whale is doing soon, but in a whole lot calmer surf ;-)
Have a surf nightmare? Post it!!!"
Cook
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